Jay Rayner reviews Rochelle ICA


While we are having lunch at the newly opened Rochelle Bar and Canteen inside the ICA on the Mall, two open horse-drawn carriages pass by outside. They are carrying the recently appointed ambassadors from Lithuania and Uganda who had been at the Palace presenting their credentials to the Queen. There are feathered caps and scarlet coats and flashes of polished gilding. Cue a few pithy musings on the clash of ancient and modern; on the contrast between the culinary modernism inside and the clip-clopping pomp and circumstance outside.